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Sushi Amidst Shelling: A Taste of Normalcy in War-Torn Sloviansk

In the frontline city of Sloviansk, Ukraine, the local sushi restaurant continues to serve despite the dangers of war.

By Cassandra Vinograd, Dzvinka Pinchuk and Brendan HoffmanSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Sushi Amidst Shelling: A Taste of Normalcy in War-Torn Sloviansk
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

Amid ongoing conflict, residents find comfort in sushi as a reminder of normal life, fueled by the dedication of local restaurateurs like Serhii Kovalov.

In the heart of Sloviansk, a city under constant threat from Russian artillery, sushi emerges as a symbol of resilience and normalcy during challenging times. Despite personal aversions and the grim atmosphere surrounding them, restaurateur Serhii Kovalov has prioritized serving fresh sushi to both local residents and soldiers. Starting from scratch on an unlikely menu item, Kovalov faced not just enemy shelling but logistical issues to procure fish for dishes that have become a beloved comfort food in wartime.Sloviansk's community has seen tough times since the onset of Russia’s invasion in early 2022. Nevertheless, for many, indulging in sushi at Kovalov's establishment, Slavnyi Horod, or “Glorious City,” represents a poignant escape from daily strife. While other residents contemplate fleeing to safety, Kovalov stands resolute, illustrating an unwavering commitment to his community's well-being. "I know I’m needed here," Kovalov expressed, acknowledging the vital role of food in bolstering morale. The presence of sushi, a culinary staple in Ukraine, transcends simple pleasure; it encapsulates hope and the human spirit's persistence amidst turmoil. As the conflict intensifies, the small joys offered through culinary creativity serve as a profound reminder of resilience in the face of adversity.

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