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Arepas in the Spotlight: The Culinary Rivalry Between Colombia and Venezuela

The debate over the origins and supremacy of arepas highlights a cultural divide between Colombia and Venezuela, with both nations adamantly defending their culinary heritage.

By James WagnerSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Arepas in the Spotlight: The Culinary Rivalry Between Colombia and Venezuela
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

In the ongoing battle for culinary pride, Colombia and Venezuela clash over the ownership of the beloved arepa, as chefs and citizens from both countries lay claims to its origins and superiority.

The simmering conflict between Colombia and Venezuela escalates, but it's not about politics or sports—it's centered on the beloved arepa, a cornbread staple cherished in both nations. These round delights, found on breakfast plates and enjoyed late at night, represent more than just food; they are woven into the cultural tapestry of both Colombia and Venezuela.Gustavo Zapata, a chef at Sancho Paisa in Medellín, describes the passionate rivalry surrounding the arepa: “Everyone defends their territory.” Just like other food disputes worldwide, such as the debates over ceviche between Peru and Ecuador or hummus between Israel and Lebanon, the arepa controversy is deeply rooted in national pride.Adding fuel to the fire, Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro has leveraged the arepa as a nationalist symbol, insisting it solely belongs to Venezuela. With many Venezuelans emigrating due to the nation’s ongoing crisis, the arepa has traveled internationally, further stirring the pot of this culinary competition.As chefs like Zapata prepare diverse variations of arepas—a reflection of their national identity—the question remains: which country possesses the true arepa legacy? The dish serves as a powerful reminder of how food can unite and divide, making it a crucial point of pride for both Colombian and Venezuelan cultures.

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