French Winemaker Defies Tradition with Controversial Global Blends

Renowned French winemaker Maxime Chapoutier has ventured into controversial territory with the launch of two blended wines that defy French and EU laws by mixing local grapes with Australian varieties. While some traditionalists decry the move, others see it as a necessary innovation to connect with modern consumers.

Maxime Chapoutier, a prominent figure in the French winemaking scene, is causing quite a stir with the release of his new blended wines, which cannot be sold in France due to stringent regulations. "There would likely be outrage about these wines in France, and that would be a good thing," Chapoutier remarked, highlighting the potential for provoking a debate on tradition and innovation in winemaking.

The two wines, labeled Hemispheres Red and Hemispheres White, are blends of French grapes from the Rhone region and Australian varietals. Strict EU laws prohibit the blending of non-EU grapes with those grown in its member states, ensuring that the revered French concept of "terroir"—the unique environmental factors affecting vineyard growth—remains intact. Many French wine enthusiasts may be horrified by the concept of mixing local and international grapes.

Chapoutier believes that embracing such blends is essential to adapt to a changing consumer landscape. "We need to adapt for consumers and make wines more accessible," he stated, emphasizing that international blends could serve as an entry point for those new to wine. He also noted the environmental benefits of shipping wine in bulk rather than in heavy glass bottles.

The wines, developed in collaboration with the UK’s The Wine Society, spark intrigue amid a growing trend among winemakers to explore cross-continental blends. Notably, Australian producer Penfolds has ventured into similar territory with its "wine of the world" concept, selling blends that combine wines from Australia and California or France.

However, not everyone supports this trend. Traditional winemakers express concerns that these practices might lead to a proliferation of low-quality wines that lack true terroir. Jas Swan, a German winemaker, stated that such blends may diminish the connection to a place, calling for consumers to be more discerning.

Peter Richards, a Master of Wine, noted that while cross-country blending isn't inherently problematic, the intention behind it should be more than mere novelty. Wine writer Jamie Goode views the development of two-continent wines positively, as long as the blends are crafted with quality in mind, arguing that skill is required in creating harmoniously blended wines.

Pierre Mansour, head of buying for The Wine Society, acknowledged the importance of innovation in wine as they approached Chapoutier with the concept. He expressed a desire to innovate while respecting the traditional principles of French winemaking.

As Chapoutier's wines gain attention, they reflect a dramatic shift in the ever-evolving world of wine, challenging long-standing norms while inviting a market keen for fresh experiences.