France has begun collecting stringent taxes on items sold by ultra‑fast‑fashion platforms, a move that could raise every garment’s cost to almost €20 by 2030. The levy is intended to curb the surge of cheap clothing supplied by global e‑commerce giants such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress.
The new charges, which took effect on Tuesday, are built on a law passed in June that defines “ultra‑fast fashion” based on the volume of clothing on the market and the relative cost of garment repair versus purchase price. The tax will differ by clothing type: underwear starts at €0.50, T‑shirts at €2, jeans at €9 and jackets at €12.
Despite the fee, France said it would spare European retailers like H&M and Zara – a decision some critics say deliberately protects domestic brands while targeting foreign competition. The leeway for up to €19.50 per item, capped at 50% of pre‑tax price, has sparked accusations from China’s commerce ministry that it is discriminatory and violates World Trade Organization norms.
Shein, which opened its first physical store in Paris last year, responded that the legislation will weaken consumer purchasing power amid a cost‑of‑living crisis. Temu, also criticised in the UK and US for its marketplace model, defended that it does not manufacture products, hence the fiscal impact is different.
