A Turkish attempt to force kebab shops in the EU to adhere to strict rules on how to make a doner kebab has been withdrawn. If the bid for a 'Traditional Speciality Guaranteed' label had succeeded, restrictions would have been imposed on the types of ingredients that could be used.
Germany's kebab industry would have particularly skewered, as the quintessential high street doner has evolved over the decades to be rather different than the original from Turkey. Turkish authorities argued the doner should be viewed as a national dish that spread to Europe through the migration of Turks. But German officials said its take on the kebab had become part of its own national cuisine.
The traditional way of cooking meat on a vertical rotisserie goes back to the 16th Century, according to Turkey's International Doner Federation (Udofed), and the name doner is related to that cooking technique.
It asked the EU to impose uniform rules across the bloc requiring that:
- the meat would come from a cow aged over 16 months, lamb aged at least six months, or chicken thighs and breasts
- veal and turkey meat would be banned
- meat would have to be sliced to a thickness of 3-5mm
- the type of knife would be regulated and marinades would be subject to rules too
The German variant of a kebab often uses veal in a flatbread packed with vegetables including red cabbage, pickles, red onions and topped with sauces - and so could be viewed as a European take on the Turkish classic.
The Turkish federation failed to consult Germany's kebab industry, which hit back with support from the government in Berlin. The German food and agriculture ministry noted the Turkish bid 'with some astonishment'. Former German food and agriculture minister Cem Özdemir stated that it was up to everyone to decide how a doner should be eaten in Germany, insisting 'the doner belongs to Germany.'
If Udofed had followed through with its bid, it would have affected a European industry dominated by the Turkish diaspora, particularly in Germany where over 1.5 million Turkish citizens reside, with approximately 60,000 people employed in the kebab industry. The annual sales of kebabs generate about €3.5 billion across Europe.
Turkish authorities reported they withdrew their proposal on September 23, facing a significant number of objections, and it was likely heading toward rejection anyway.