Transforming Tresses: The Growing Wig Industry in India

The Indian wig market is experiencing a surge in popularity, driven by changing perceptions and innovative advancements. While drag artist Zeeshan Ali showcases the expressive potential of wigs, behind the scenes, hair traders like Kolachi Venkatesh emphasize the challenges faced by collectors. The industry aims to move from hair collection to high-value wig production, with hopes for government support to enhance competitiveness on the global stage.

Zeeshan Ali has been a drag artist for a decade, captivating audiences across India with his performances powered by an impressive collection of around 45 wigs. “Wigs allow me to become someone else, helping me transition from my everyday self into exaggerated, glamorous or whimsical characters. With the right wig, I feel empowered on stage,” he shares, based in Mumbai. However, achieving the right look took considerable effort in the early days of his career. “In the past, finding quality wigs in India was challenging, requiring sourcing from abroad or creating my own from materials like wool and fabric,” he remarks.

Today, the landscape is changing.
“Wigs are now popular not just among drag performers or actors, but are embraced by many women who wish to transform their look. They are increasingly seen as a fashion statement rather than merely a hair accessory.”

India has long held the title of the largest exporter of human hair, accounting for 85% of global supply. Kolachi Venkatesh, a Chennai-based hair collector, shares his 20-year journey in the industry, which began by collecting hair from households—an activity passed down from his parents. “We collect what is regarded as non-Remy hair, which requires more processing than Remy hair. However, one person’s discarded hair can be another’s treasure. 'It’s just thrown away but it's gold,'” says Venkatesh.

Hair pickers often sell their collected hair to local traders like Mr. Venkatesh for between 10 cents and $1 per kilogram depending on quality. “A diligent collector may gather 1–5 kilograms in a day and earn around $6. Unfortunately, this is often below minimum wage, particularly in rural areas,” he explains, as he manages 50 pickers working under him.

With most Indian human hair exported to China for wig production—an industry valued at $5 to $6 billion—Benjamin Cherian representing Plexconcil, the Indian hair industry association, asserts that India needs to enhance its capabilities. “Unlike China, which has numerous factories contributing to the wig-making sector, India needs to ramp up its value addition processes,” he notes.

Cherian calls for government support in driving investment in the hair industry: “To capitalize on the market, we need advancements in automated sorting systems, sophisticated hair treatment, and innovative manufacturing techniques.” He envisions a future where India moves from simply exporting hair to offering premium wigs. “We have initiated steps in that direction, though there is much work to be done,” he adds.

Delhi-based Diva Divine Hair, co-founded by Nidhi Tiwari in 2009, exemplifies one such innovative approach to the market, focusing on high-quality wigs and extensions for women facing hair loss and thinning. "Social attitudes towards wigs have shifted significantly, leading to a newfound acceptance," Tiwari says, highlighting advancements in wig technology, including 3D-printed options, digital color matching, and enhanced comfort features.

George Cherion, CEO of Raj Hair International, noted that demand for Remy or Temple hair is on the rise due to its superior quality. With meticulous processing, his company minimizes waste by using technology to efficiently sort and untangle hair. "Indian hair is in high demand globally due to its natural appearance and quality,” he states.

In the heart of Mumbai, Zeeshan Ali advocates for an expansion of the Indian wig market: “I want to see more Indian designs available. A wig that delivers a true ‘wow factor’ would be incredible.”