French Human Trafficking Trial Unveils Dark Side of Champagne Harvesting

Three defendants face charges of human trafficking, exposing the grim reality of migrant labor in champagne production.

In a startling human trafficking trial taking place in Reims, France, the disturbing conditions experienced by seasonal workers in the champagne industry have come to light. The case involves three individuals - a Kyrgyzstani woman, a Georgian man, and a French national - accused of exploiting over 50 undocumented migrants during the grape harvest in September 2023.

These workers, primarily from West Africa—including Mali, Mauritania, Ivory Coast, and Senegal—were discovered living in deplorable conditions at a property in Nesle-le-Repons, just southwest of Reims. They had been recruited through a WhatsApp message aimed at the West African Soninke community in Paris, which falsely advertised "well-paid work" in the region famed for its champagne production.

Survivors have recounted their traumatic experiences. Kanouitié Djakariayou, 44, described the squalid surroundings, stating, "They shouted at us in Russian and crammed us into this broken-down house, with mattresses on the floor... There was no clean water, and the only food was a bowl of rice and rotten sandwiches." Another victim, Doumbia Mamadou, 45, echoed these sentiments, highlighting the absence of psychological support for workers without legal documentation.

Labor inspectors, alerted by a local resident, found extensive violations of safety and hygiene standards upon visiting the premises a week later. Prosecutor Annick Browne outlined the dire living conditions, which included inadequate toilets and unhygienic eating arrangements exposed to the elements. Workers were reportedly putting in ten-hour shifts with only a 30-minute break, transported in trucks like cattle, and lacking formal contracts with wage disparities that bore no relation to their labor.

The accused parties, including the main suspect Svetlana G., who runs a recruitment agency for the wine industry, face severe penalties, including potential jail time of up to seven years and substantial fines. Besides human trafficking, additional charges such as employing undocumented workers and providing unsuitable accommodations have been leveled against them.

The trial has led to heightened scrutiny of worker exploitation within the €6 billion champagne industry. Autumn harvests typically engage around 120,000 seasonal laborers, many of whom are sourced through agencies that often exploit loopholes. In recent years, including a notable incident where six workers died from suspected heatstroke during harvest season, cases of maltreatment in the industry have raised alarms.

Labor unions argue that many champagne producers obscure their unethical practices by employing intermediaries, pushing for legislative reforms that would strip the "champagne" label from any company found using illegal labor. Jose Blanco of the CGT union emphasized, "It should not be possible to harvest the grapes of champagne using human misery."

In response to the ongoing trial, the Comité Champagne, which represents champagne producers, has stated that cases of mistreatment are rare and promptly addressed, yet they have joined the proceedings as a civil plaintiff over the damage caused to the brand by these unacceptable practices.