The Hidden Cost of Fast Fashion: Inside the Factories Powering Shein's Rise

Wed Mar 12 2025 18:15:13 GMT+0200 (Eastern European Standard Time)
The Hidden Cost of Fast Fashion: Inside the Factories Powering Shein's Rise

Inside the bustling factories of Guangzhou, the truth behind the ultra-low prices of fast fashion retailer Shein reveals challenging working conditions faced by laborers.


The heartbeat of Shein's operations lies in the Panyu neighborhood of Guangzhou, China, where factory workers are subjected to long hours and low pay, raising serious ethical questions about the fast fashion industry's impact on labor rights.

In the bustling industrial hub of Guangzhou, the sound of sewing machines resonates, marking the rhythm of labor in what’s known as the "Shein village." Workers spend upwards of 75 hours a week producing garments like t-shirts and shorts destined for consumers in over 150 countries. During a recent investigation by the BBC, it was revealed that many employees undergo extreme work schedules, often only receiving one day off per month, pushing the boundaries of Chinese labor laws.

Shein, valued at approximately £36 billion, has rapidly ascended to become the largest fast fashion retailer worldwide in just five years. The company is reportedly seeking a listing on the London Stock Exchange, highlighting its ambition. However, its growth remains clouded by allegations concerning worker exploitation, including cases of child labor, prompting the company to assert its commitment to labor standards and compliance within its supply chain.

The factories in Panyu, where about 5,000 manufacturing units operate as Shein suppliers, are characterized by their open doors and constant bustle, replete with deliveries stretching into late hours. Workers, earning between 4,000 and 10,000 yuan (approximately £265-£1,140) per month, are acutely aware of the pressures, as they often share tight living conditions and the burden of supporting families back home.

A significant concern arises from the earnings structure; workers face a piece-rate payment system, earning just over a dollar to produce a simple t-shirt. Observations confirm that previously reported excessive overtime is indeed a norm, undermining basic human rights, as examined by advocacy group Public Eye.

Despite its headquarters shifting to Singapore, a substantial amount of Shein's production continues in China. The controversy surrounding its sourcing practices, particularly in the Xinjiang region linked to allegations of forced labor, only intensifies consumer scrutiny.

As the company pivots to bolster its public image ahead of a potential IPO, experts note that transparency will be pivotal in assuaging investor concerns while demanding accountability for labor practices. Observations from the BBC expose a complex dynamic; factory owners grapple with profit versus the looming specter of corporate control exerted by Shein, which dominates pricing and supply chain decisions.

Among those who work in these factories, opinions vary. While some express pride in contributing to an increasingly competitive fashion landscape, others lament the grueling hours and subdued wages. In an ever-competitive global market, Shein continues to capitalize on both speed and volume, making it a powerful player that demands a closer look at the realities of those producing fashion at such a swift pace.

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