First British Tourists Return to North Korea: A Journey Behind the Curtain

Wed Mar 12 2025 21:53:31 GMT+0200 (Eastern European Standard Time)
First British Tourists Return to North Korea: A Journey Behind the Curtain

British and international travelers share their first-hand experiences from North Korea after a five-year hiatus, revealing a mix of control and glimpses of life in the secluded nation.


A recently organized tour brought British tourists and others to North Korea, reopening a rare window into the tightly regulated society that has been cut off from the world. Guests, led by local guides, described a surreal experience, marked by stringent controls, choreographed visits, and sobering realities of day-to-day life under a repressive regime. As the isolation continues, the tourists encountered both the familiar sights of a planned trip and unexpected insights, offering a complex portrait of North Korea.

The North Korean government has laid out strict protocols for tourists returning after the years of pandemic-induced closure. According to Rowan Beard of Young Pioneer Tours, guides remind visitors not to insult the leadership or their ideology and highlight the country’s severe limitations, including a lack of internet access and currency. Nonetheless, these tourists experienced what it means to navigate a country shrouded in secrecy.

Participants included a diverse group of about a dozen travelers, among which was Mike O’Kennedy, a British YouTuber. O'Kennedy expressed surprise at the level of control imposed on tourists — guides closely monitored their routines, even accompanying them to the restroom. Despite this, he managed to observe some local life being lived in a Rason neighborhood. He relayed an unsettling scene where children danced to videos of missile strikes, a harsh reminder of the regime's propaganda.

Tour guides adhered to a predefined schedule, showcasing local sites like a beer factory, a school, and a newly established pharmacy—each visit projected a preordained narrative favored by the regime. As the tourists navigate Rason, they are kept away from the capital, Pyongyang, with tour directors suggesting the isolation of this region allows for easier state control.

Travelers described seeing disheveled buildings and rundown infrastructure that belied the pristine images often disseminated by North Korean authorities. Joe Smith, a recurrent traveler to North Korea, voiced his concern over the visible decay and deteriorating conditions, illustrating a stark contrast to curated governmental portrayals.

Despite the heavy oversight, interactions between tourists and North Korean guides revealed a world of propaganda and genuine curiosity. A surprising awareness of world events on the part of the guides highlighted their limited exposure to outside information, adding a layer of complexity to the visitors’ experience. While the tourists conducted a carefully choreographed sequence of activities, they grappled with the weight of their presence in a country where much of the population remains completely unaware of such tourism.

Emotions ran high throughout, with O’Kennedy reflecting on a poignant encounter with a student who expressed hope of visiting Britain someday, an aspiration laden with uncertainties, given the regime's strict travel restrictions. The experience has raised ethical questions regarding tourism in North Korea, as critics argue that such trips could bolster the regime's grip rather than directly benefit the general populace.

As North Korea cautiously reopens to tourism, the tension between curiosity and control remains palpable, leaving visitors with complex and often bittersweet revelations about one of the world’s most isolated countries.

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